Like the Pamir Knot, the cold and high altitude desert of Leh & Ladakh is also referred to as the “Roof of the world”. Surely, it is the roof of the world with the worlds highest motorable Pass – the Kardungla Pass also popularly know as the ‘K –Top’. It stands at a mighty height of 18400 feet above sea level surrounded by snow peaks all around. It was snowing like a hale storm when I went up in June 2005. To know of the temperature of the Pass I saw the digital thermometer I had carried with me, it showed -4°C. At night the temperature drops to –10°C to -40°C.
The cold winds blowing make it biting cold. I felt my hands were very cold, as I was not wearing gloves. The army personnel advice the people not to stay there more than half an hour as apart from the extreme cold the oxygen concentration is just 40-60% of the normal concentration.
Oh! I forgot to tell you of the important quotation: “Wise are those who take complete rest on their first day as only then they can do their work on the second day onwards efficiently”. I did exactly this so that I adapt to the low oxygen and cold high altitude. I took a lot of fluids like water, juice and hot soup that was very welcome in the cold evenings.
I had planned and come to collect soil and water samples for research investigation of this unique niche located in Northern India. I carried around two iceboxes in my car to store the important samples I had collected. I collected samples from the surface, below the surface, under the ice and from different water sources. The driver who used to accompany me really helped me and now he is an expert in scientific collection of samples from unusual places. I made it a point to record the temperature, humidity and altitude of the sampling point.
The highest collection point was the Kardungla Pass (K-Top) that was 18400 ft. above sea level. As I have interest in petroleum hydrocarbons I collected soil from a Bulldozer parking shed located at very high altitude. A lot of oil had spilled around on the snow soil mixture for years. From this precious mixture I will isolate microorganisms that degrade toxic components of oil in cold conditions. The other point I would specially like to mention was Pengong Lake.
It consists of salty water and fine granules. Two army persons accompanied me to fill up the small plastic bottles with the brackish water. I made it a point to collect water and small stones from the Indus River. It was an interesting thing to collect from the backyard of a Monastery where nobody seemed to go. During the studies for microorganisms I was also looking for cyanobacteria or more popularily know as blue green algae.
On my return I was asked by a security person “are you carrying soil in your baggage?” Impulsively I showed my Identity Card and said “your X’ray machine is real good!!” Presently we are isolating microbes for study and applications in diverse fields. A genomic (DNA) library is also being made that will be useful for further understanding the novel and diverse microbial diversity of this area.
I noted that the cold desert had barren soil that was composed of small pebbles and very big stones. There were fertile spots in patches that were developed by farmers and the Agriculture Department. The Leh berries and juice is an example of a Leh product. There is a food industry unit that is exploring the potential products of the area.
The women society of Leh is very active and has set up an outlet of fresh food and juice products at nominal prices. I had a refreshing drink at this place. I was really impressed not to find plastic bags there. As a result the streets are very clean. I purchased some china tea bowls that were wrapped in paper. I asked the shopkeeper to give me a plastic bag but he handed me a paper bag.
I complimented him for the non-polluting eco-friendly paper bag and walked out with a smile thinking that this is a good point that we too should adopt. I was wondering why many people looked black. I learnt that it was due to the environment of the area. During the day the sunrays are very intense and so are the ultra-violet rays.
The rays combined with the location are a result of blackening of the people. I saw many people covering their faces with a cloth to avoid this expose. At night the sky is very clear due to less polluting dust and particles in the air. An Indian Astronomical Observatory is located about 250 Kms. away from Leh to observe and study the heavenly bodies clearly.
From the central ground outside the DC’s office high above one can see the famous palace. The palace is distinguished monument and a historical building. The palace having nine floors was built by the 17th century illustrious ruler of Ladakh, Sengge Namgyal. It is an imposing structure, though in ruins now, situated on a hill and commands a grand view of the Leh town.
The building in grand Tibetan architecture is said to have inspired the famous Potala of Lahasa, built half a century later. Namgyal Tsemo, the peak overlooking the town are the ruins of the fort built by the king Tashi namgyal in the 16th century, as a royal residence. People buy vegetable and fruits kept on truck backs.
The trucks come all the way from Srinagar and from the plains of Jammu and Kashmir. Another interesting point near Leh is the magnetic hill that can pull heavy vehicles and road rollers etc. towards it. People get thrilled to see this unusual event of vehicles in neutral gear and engines off drifting towards the magnetic hill.
The Pangong Lake is about 150 kms. Southeast of Leh, part of it is in India while the other part is in China. It is a brackish (salty) lake that gives a great view. It is a most beautiful natural brackish lake around 120 Kms. in length and nearly 5 Kms. in width. There is a camp of the army there that controls the vehicular traffic. Many tourist tents are seen in the periphery of the lake. Enroute the lake is a Pass, the Changla Pass that is 17800 ft. above sea level.
Two times I had to stop for the snow clearance by the bulldozers. The car drivers prefer to go in convey as they feel that if they get stuck up the others would help. Many Police and army check posts have to be crossed that check the inner line permit issued by the District Magistrate, Leh. The army people are very hospitable and offer first aid, toilet and refreshments. Hot tea offered by them in the big mugs is the need in the cold. I was amazed to see so many Yaks and mountain horses.
I walked on a lake that was frozen-I remembered the Rideau Canal in Ottawa on which people walk and do skating. The local people told me that there are no snakes in Leh as they cannot adapt to the surroundings and the climate. Man is an exception and can adapt to diverse climatic conditions. The highest training center of the scouts is located their (11050 ft.) and so is the highest airport. It is a real sight to see the meeting point of the river Indus and the river Zangskar from the hill high above.
The Indus appears green but when it meets Zangskar the water turns muddy and eventually flows to Pakistan via the Kargil region. The monasteries are very big and old. In the Alchi monastery are paintings on the walls and one can see so many Stupas. I had taken a torch on my fathers suggestion to see the intricate paintings on he walls as the monasteries are lit by natural light only and its dark inside. The torch was really very handy.
The visit was a real once in lifetime experience for me that is very unique as the people of that area are very warm and helpful. I carried the sweet memories back with me and captured some snaps. At times I listen to the ladakhi cassette I purchased from a shop in the outskirts of Leh.